Commander Islands- booklet

            Commander Islands of the Kamchatka region at the          
                Russian Far East.

BOOKLET

              “Commander – most of the majestic Islands at    the Northern      
                Pacific Ocean!“

Unique opportunity to visit Biosphere Reserve under protection of UNESCO!

Text by Dr. Vladimir Sevostianov

E-Mail: seaotter3@hotmail.com
Web Site: http://home.comcast.net/~mishkabear/island/

The Commander Islands, located in the Bering Sea (Northern Part of the Pacific Ocean) are unique by Nature and culturally diverse part of the World. This Booklet is devoted to saving them and show the people how beautiful Nature on the Islands.
Please, take a tour through it and you will understand the beauty and importance of this pristine area for sure.

Where are the Commander Islands?

Please, have a look at the map of the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean and you will easily notice between the two continents, Eurasia and America the chain of the Islands. It’s the Aleutians. Two small Islands closing the Aleutian’s chain on the east and Kamchatka on the west are the Bering and Medniy islands. That’s right, it’s the Commander Islands Archipelago.
So, geographically the Commander Islands are located approximately 200 miles (333 km) from the Attu Islands off Aleutians in the Bering Sea, about 1000 miles (3350 km) from Anchorage, Alaska and 90 miles from Kamchatka ( Russia ). It means — 166 E; 55 N.


Why they so unique?

Historical aspect:

As you know for now, the Commander Islands, better known as Bering and Medniy Islands, played an important role in Vitus Bering's expedition to Alaska and the Aleutian Islands.
Even at the middle of the 18th century, nobody knew about the strait separating America from Asia as well as about the terrain, which lies east of Kamchatka.

That’s why, on May, 29, 1741, the "Saint Peter" and "Saint Paul" packet boats left the Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy (Avacha bay) and sailed into Pacific. It was the Second Russian Great Kamchatka expedition. Vitus Bering,Captain -Commander was the head of it. Captain Alexsey Chirikov and German naturalist George Steller were also among its participants.

On their way back from the America, the boat headed by Vitus Bering was caught by severe storm that lasted for 17 days. In the 4th November 1741, the crew noticed high shores at the distance. At the beginning, the land resembled as Kamchatka, but after examination of the shores they sadly recognize that the vessel landed to the completely the unknown Island. The seamen were doomed during the wintertime on the unfriendly desert shore. Only 46 persons out of 70 stayed alive. Vitus Bering died on 8 December 1741. Alive members of the "Saint Peter" crew decided to name the discovered Island after their Commander.

Ethnographical and Archeological aspects:
The Aleuts appeared on the Commander Islands early in the 19th century. They were settlers from the Aleutian Islands. Most of the Aleuts inhabiting Bering Island came from Atka Island (USA in present time), and those who lived on Medniy Island were from Attu Island (USA in present time). Different place of the original settlers was reflected in both the linguistic and cultural distinctions of the two Islands. For many years they intensively mixed with some others nationals (Koriak, Russian, Aiynu…). After a while, the aboriginal people on the Commander prefer to call themselves as a Creole. So, the culture of the Commander Aleuts is really uncommon.
The Nikolskoye village (Bering Island, founded in 1826) and Preobrazhenskoye village (Medniy Island) are the largest settlements on the Commander Islands. More than twenty wooden houses were built by the Hutchinson Company (USA) in Nikolskoye village in the second half of the 18th century. Several buildings of that period have been preserved in the village till present.
On the Medniy Islands still might be found the old cemetery with graves of Aleutian people and Russians with some beautiful remainders of the gravestones.
On the Bering Islands (Commander Bay) are the most famous memorial complex of the graves Vitus Bering and some other participants of his crew.
Nowadays on the Commander Islands exists only Nikolskoye village. It is the administrative center of the Aleutian national area with the small population of the people — about 700. Most of them unemployed, others are engaged in a hunt and fishery. The small part of their population works in the Nature Reserve.

By the way, the Commander Islands are really one and native area in Russia for this small population of aboriginal people.


Biodiversity aspect:

Actually, the waters between Russia and USA (Alaska and Aleutians) lies a sea so rich in wildlife and so varied in coastal and subsea habitats that it’s considered one of most biologically productive and diverse marine environments. Covering almost a million square miles of subarctic waters, the Bering Sea supports vast populations of fish and shellfish, birds from every continents and countless numbers of the whales, porpoises, dolphins, walruses, sea lions, fur seals, sea otters and seals.

But only on the Commander Islands we can found the full picture of that.

The main reason is in unique combination some geological and hydrological factors around this small area.

Climate of the Islands is typically oceanic and high breadths. Average temperature of the most cold month (January) a minus of 5,4 degrees Celsius, warmest (August) plus of 10,4 degrees Celsius. Average of cloudiness is 81 percents. The high humidity of air is characteristic. The sea near Commander Islands is quietest in summer and most stormy from November to March. The force of a wind during storm quite often reaches 35 — 40 meters per second. The ice around the Commander Islands has been not formed at all, because of the warm ocean currents, which reaching the Islands from the Japanese Sea.

Also, near Commander Islands there are a few huge and active under water volcanoes.

All together its form the most favorable conditions for phito and zooplankton which formed the living base for the other high range organisms at the Ecosystem.

It’s the main factors of the huge biodiversity of the seaweed near the coastal line of the Islands too. Actually, it’s one of the richest areas of seaweed by species and biomass in the World.

Furthermore, the Commander and Aleutian Islands connect Asia and Northern America. In fact, its form a bridge which ensured the dispersal of plants and animals. Flora and fauna of the Islands are represented by queer combination of species of the Asian and American origin. That’s why the Commanders are the extreme eastern point of the range of Asian species.

Migration routes of many whale species pass along the Islands shores. In the coastal waters, the fattening or wintering areas of 15 toothed whale species and 6 whale-bone whale species (sperm whales, killer whales, Bering Sea and Cuvier's beaked whales, porpoises, lesser finbacks, seiwhales, finwhale, humpback and northern right whales) are located.

189 bird species were registered on the Commander Islands; 57 of them were proved to nest there. The birds associated with water, sea colonial birds in particular, are most abundant and diverse on the Islands.

Many inhibitions of the Commander Islands are rare and listed in the Russian and IUCN Red Data Books. They are harbor seals, sea otters, Arctic foxes (subspecies from Medniy Island), almost all whale species, glaucous-wnged gulls, red legged kittiwakes, peregrine falcons, gyrfalcons and emperor geese.

Almost all known marine mammal’s families are represented there. Sea-otters (about 4-4,5 thousands), harbor (flower) seals and largas (about 10-15 thousands) are the residents of the Islands; rookeries of northern fur seals (about 250 thousands) and Steller's sea lions (about 5 thouthands) are being restored.

The terrestrial vegetation of the Commander Islands is extremely original. The mountain tundra, covering most of the territory, developed in the absence of permafrost. This is not characteristic of such communities. In addition, it has been never seriously affected by the vegetarian animals (rodents and ungulates). These animals do actually create the appearance of tundra on the mainland. Mushrooms are also abundant on the Commanders.
The landscape of the Commander Islands is really impressive. Unusual coastal cliffs and rocky outcroppings, vast plain tundra, low mountains with steep slopes and narrow valleys of multiple rivers and streams with dozen of beautiful falls. Unstable marine scenarios and even frequent fogs create particularly attractive images of the Commanders.

Ecological and Nature Protection aspects:

The history of mastering and exploiting the Commander Islands is abundant in irreversible losses. Merciless whaling, sealing, and harvest of the sea birds actually began since the moment of the islands discovery. In 1755, a more thirteen years after the islands were discovered, a trader by the name of Piotr Yakovlev visited the Commander Islands and wrote a report about the urgency of banning the manatee harvest. His warning was neglected and the last sea cow was killed in 1768.
It’s really most of the dramatic point why the nature of the northern insular communities is extremely vulnerable. Any imprudent human interference in this fragile world may result in severe deterioration of its harmony and unity.

Since 1958 Russian Government highly prohibit the 30 miles area the seawater around the Commander Islands for commercial fishing. As a result, more then 40 years this area doesn’t have so distraction influences from it. In mean time it’s only one area for whole Beringia indeed. That’s why, from the point of view to further safety and study natural marine eco-system, the Commander Islands extremely impotent too.

In 1993, the Commander Islands Nature Preserve was established. By Russian federal law, a large percentage of the islands, as well as a 30-mile radius of ocean around them, became primary conservation areas. In the same year, the Gore-Chernomirdin Commission (USA — Russia) highlighted the Commander Islands Nature Preserve as a key zone for conservation in the North Pacific.
In 2002, the Commander Nature Preserve was taking some special status like a Biosphere Reserve under UNESCO.
 It’s well display how the Commander Islands play the impotent role for the USA, Russia, Japan, Canada, China, Korea and many others.

The World Human Being aspect:

In the mean time, a few an American’s companies have been doing some eco-tourist expedition at the North Pacific.

The first one was “Zegrahm & Eco Expedition” (Seattle, USA). In 1997 they organized some short landing on the Commander Islands with huge success. After all, another the American firm such the “Society Expeditions” (Seattle, USA), was following.

They have been doing some successful eco-tourist expeditions at the North Pacific, included the Commander Islands in their distention from Japan to Alaska. The Commander Islands were always high light of the trip for all people around the World indeed!

The wildlife, unique harmony of all landscapes of the tundra North are represented on these relatively small pieces of land. A traveler sees, or at least hears the ocean in any point of the islands. In any season, the dramatic beauty of the islands will take your breath away, and they will remain with you forever.


Spiritual aspect:

Please, have a look at this small letter. Actually, it’s only one from the many…From people who have been touching the Commander Islands more closely and after that try to display their an inmost thoughts:

My dear Friend,

Please, stay well, when you will begin to read this letter. Even for me it's really strange... Frankly speaking I still don't realize it myself — how it happened? From where comes the inspiration?

Anyway, I spent more then 20 years working as an ecologist and marine mammal’s biologist on the Commander Islands. Well, during that time, it was the first chance for me to feel and touch the Mother Nature by heart and soul so deeply, that I never ever felt...Just remember one fall day on the Commander. I was alone for a month and wrote my thesis in a small cabin. Far from anybody... with only my dog, Yukon...
Sunset was amazing... Under the cliff I stayed in silent... and all of a sudden, like never before, I started to feel that I was face to face with the world, a part of all that surrounded me at that time. I was not a stranger anymore... I was like a small organic piece of the birds, the ocean, the sun... all Nature! In that same way, I felt that I would be forever!!! So, it was... An unforgettable experience, which, luckily, has continued up until this time in life!

Just before going to sleep, up here in Canada, I read the Bible and try to recall the film by Andrey Tarkovskiy named “Andrey Rublev”... It certainly made a huge impression on me... and now to find from the Holy book some words, which that film hero had spoken...

“If I speak in the tongues of man and of angels but do not have Love, I have become a sounding brass or a clashing cymbal. And if I have the gift of prophesying and an acquainted with all the sacred secrets and all knowledge, and if I have all faith so as to transplant mountains, but do not have Love, I am nothing. And if I give all my belongings to feed others, and if I hand over my body, that I may boast, but do not have Love, I am not profited at all. Love is long-suffering and kind. Love is not jealous, it does not brag, does not get puffed up, does not behave indecently, does not look for its own interests, does not become provoked. If does not keep account of the injury. It does not rejoice over unrighteousness, but rejoices with the truth. It bears all things, believes all things, hopes all things, endures all things. Love never falls. But whether there are gifts of prophesying, they will be done away with; whether there are tongues, they will cease; whether there is knowledge, it will be done away with.” (I Corinthians 13: 1—8)

The famous American writer Ernest Thompson Seton, who wrote wonderful stories about Nature, said many years ago: "I came to know how terrible it was to feel thirsty. I've been trying to dig some wells, so that from them other people could drink too." That's why I'm sure that our efforts to preserve the unique environment of the Commander Islands is so important for future generations. They are a way to get closer to our personal God.

Just have a look outside and inside — still Alive Nature on the Commander Islands, Truth Culture, Friends and close People — should be tern up our inner world towards the feelings: try to build up the Harmony for everyone on the Earth. So, it's the main point of this letter ...

Are you tired after reading this? If not, I'm so confident that this small letter was written by You too!


What the people,scientists and the officials can do to preserve?

It’s might be only one point to more intensive work for representation and demonstration the true knowledge about Commander Islands a front of the Governments, Industrial firms, Social and Charitable organizations, Colleagues and People all over around the World.


What can You do to Help personally?


Please, visit their Web Sites in the Net and tell this unique information your friends and close people:

http://home.comcast.net/~mishkabear/island/


For more exact information and plans for actions, please touch us by post mail and E-Mail:

“ Commander Islands & BC Nature Protection and Conservation     Association “

President: Dr. Vladimir Sevostianov

This is professional, non-governmental organization (NGO), was organized in 1999. The main goal of the Association is to provide some urgent help for the local community of people on the Commander Islands and conservation of Nature.


E-Mail: seaotter3@hotmail.com




For whom who may concern
The Kamchatka regional Center of ecological researches and Educations

                The science station at the Medniy Island needs in renewal!
                (Commander Islands, Kamchatka region, Russia).

From the middle of 80 years, All Union Research Institute of Oceanography ( VNIRO ) and his science group on the Commander Islands had been triggered some building of the scientific station at the Medniy Island in Gladkovskaya Bay. The idea such a “base” was supporting by science council of VNIRO, Ministry of fishing of the USSR, some well-known scientist from Russian Academy and officials in all level authority. 
By default, the strategic initiative scientists was absolutely sure, that this “base” might be some kind of grounds for developing wide repertoire of research work in oceanography  and plenty of academy programs.         
Well, it really happened in practice.
Even at the beginning of construction activity, besides study behavior and ecology of the sea otters, was successfully starting some project for artificial growing mussels at the Gladkovskaya lagoon. Some academy scientists from Kamchatka got great collection of biological material. Some other scientists, for example, from Moscow State University used the place for their observation work to unique subspecies of the blue arctic fox. A lot of students almost from all over the Russia had a great scientific and field – expedition trainings.
But all plans for the future cooperation and development were stopping, because the time of social and economic changes at the USSR.
Completely was ended some financial support. The scientific group on the Commander Islands was close down. All buildings were leaving without any save control.
In heritage, the Commander Nature Reserve, which was established in 1993, got some remains.
Anyway, the urgency of reconstitution of this “base”, for the time being only has been growing up!
Without any doubt, it will be good point for protection of Nature at the hard-to-reach places of the Reserve, but again attracts many different kind research people from all over the World indeed!
First of all its might be some projects with marine mammals such a sea otters, whales, dolphins, harbor seals, northern fur seals and sea lions. There are wide variants for oceanography programs and monitoring activity of unique flora and fauna of the island.
Actually they can help in understanding for some global changes at the Northern Pacific!
Furthermore, and we couldn’t forget it, that from 1958 the Government of the USSR had been prohibited all industrial fishing at the 30 miles ocean water around the Commander Islands. This condition for protection of the islands had been continued for the present time! In fact, this area only one place at the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean which save some natural under water ecosystem and wild life as well.   
That’s why at the official and scientific meetings, especially between USA and Russia, the Commander islands has been calling like a “key stone” for better understanding ways of development of Beringia Ecosystem.
Some other good sign in renewal such a “base” might be returning a “small mother-land” for the Aleutian people. It helps them to be employment and even develops small fishing salmon activity, ethnography and ecology tourism around non part of Reserve at the Gladkovskaya Bay.
Also, as a necessarily reminder, in 2002 the Commander Islands Nature Reserve was move under Biosphere status under UNESCO. It means that one of his main goal are reconstruction of harmony situation between Nature and aboriginal people.
Somehow or other, the present time is exact chance for renewal of the Gladkovskaya base with still less financial recourses indeed!
In this case, we can talk about some international coalition people and organizations which will be able to do that together with Commander Nature Biosphere Reserve.
The Kamchatka regional Center for ecological research and education will call to all who truly concern in this business. Hopefully it will allow to all to do some discussion of the problem and under strong contracts to understand their proper role at the project.
In this particularity way, the Center will be able give some financial and science support to the Nature Reserve for sure.
Without any doubt, the Commander Reserve could be the organize point – core in such important project at the Northern Pacific.

Director of the Center,
Vladimir Sevostianov


12.02. 2010.
Contact information:
 E-Mail: seaotter3@hotmail.com


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