Yuri Stash Album of Adyghe ornaments

To the 100-th anniversary of the Adyghe autonomous oblast

Interview with Circassian fashion-designer, honored worker of culture of the Republic of Adyghea Yuri Stash.
- Yuri Makhmudovich! A few years ago, in one of your interviews, you said you once created and used in your work so-called "Album of Adyghe ornaments". What kind of album was it? And for what purpose did you create it?
Yu.S.: This album was created for decorating everyday clothes. It was a collection of ornaments called "Adyghe folk ornament in modern clothing". In 1975, if I'm not mistaken, we were 3 designers, namely: designer-fashion for men's outerwear in my person, designer-fashion for women's clothing Elena Khokhlova and designer-fashion of light dress Emma Sheshukova, we all worked with this album. Each of us created several of ornaments. This elaborating was done within the framework of activity of our Experimental sewing laboratory. And it was interesting, we created a collection of clothes decorated with national ornaments, and this collection was exhibited in the Atelier. However, later, the Head of this Atelier asked me to take it away because of complexity of its sewing. Certainly, those ornaments were difficult to sew. However, people who saw them asked to use them on their clothing. For this reason, we took our collection back, but we showed it repeatedly in the cities of the Krasnodar territory, including the city of Novorossiysk.
-You mentioned an Experimental sewing laboratory. What kind of laboratory was it? And why was it created in Adyghea?
Yu.S.: Yes, it was the Experimental sewing laboratory in the AAO, Adyghe autonomous oblast. At that time, I was its head. Then in the 1970s, we went to region districts, we provided assistance in training specialists and making modern clothing. When new models appeared in the Soviet Union, I went annually to seminars, from where I brought then literature on three directions: upper men's and women's clothing, light dress. We implemented these models in the districts and trained specialists. Then they came to our laboratory for consultations.
- For the Album or collection "Adyghe folk ornament in modern clothing", created by you, how did you use ornaments at that time? They were embroidered as patterns or sewn as appliques for clothing styling?  What made you create such a collection?
Yu.S.: For clarity, I will give such one example. Our laboratory collaborated with the Educational production college, and its students sewed many men's coats. Then I crated such a clasp for them in form of an ornament of rings and leather. That is, imagine, the rings were connected by a leather cord. And I suggested them to do this experiment: to sew men's vests with this ornamental clasp. And when they made these vests, there was a very high demand for them. And even then, as I heard, someone went to their atelier and ordered such vests. They carried out such orders.
- In the same interview a few years ago, you, Yuri Makhmudovich, mentioned you presented this album in Suzdal.
Yu.S.: Yes, I went to Suzdal. It was an all-Union event, seminar for designers, artists, and fashion designers. And I represented this album there. At that time, many people said it was a great collection. However, they have mistaken calling us – Adyghes – as Udyghes. I corrected them, of course. However, they liked our Album of Adyghe ornaments very much. At that time, we were already making belts and handbags with Adyghe ornaments, made of leather. Other various types of ornamental decoration were also produced by us. In general, we used the technique of application, that is, ornaments were cut out of leather and sewn on clothes. We even made a newspaper stand in the same way. Personally, I made it, using the Adyghe ornaments. And we have used it for several years.  Certainly, it's better to see this Album. I have kept it.
- Yuri Makhmudovich, in your works you use a lot of symbols and Adyghe ornaments, in particular, by braiding or as applications. In your next project to produce a series of handmade mini-panels, you pay great attention to Adyghe ornaments. How do you choose these patterns for different panels?
Yu.S.: Certainly, I watch this Album of Adyghe ornaments. But there are actually not very many of them. Therefore, for my panels, I create my own ornaments, based on them, I change and add something, and I work with them passionately. In general, I use the braiding method for my mini-panels. I just thought when the dress of the Adyghes was worn out, they took off the embroidery and accessories, made with gold embroidery, from it, and then they sewed them on the new dress as appliques. That fact gave me the example to make such ornaments braiding. Of course, this technique is different from the gold embroidery of Adyghes. But I like it. And as they say, there is a deed in the beginning, and then - a word. When I do this project, I will tell you everything in detail.
- As we have already learned, there was the special Experimental sewing laboratory in the Adyghe autonomous oblast, which was sewing different clothes, introduced new models and trained specialists. How long did it work? And what contribution did it bring for development of light industry in the region?
Yu. S.: The great contribution of that laboratory was that we made models, using modern design, for making clothes. Then it was a trend in the fashion. We implemented the models which were shown and recommended to us. For this, we went to seminars in Suzdal, Rostov-on-Don, Ordzhonikidze and other places. From there, we brought the works, and then elaborated a design of new models. Then we showed them to cutters in Maykop and district centers. In fact, it was a very interesting job! In addition, specialists have come to the laboratory for one day, and we trained them. I still meet some of my students now. At the same time, I was teaching the model construction at the Educational production college in Maykop. One of my students is sewing now national clothes. The other one works in Nalmes. Another made costumes in the theater.
- You have already told us how much you have done to preserve the Adyghe ornaments. In your opinion, what role does the ornament play in applied arts, if we take the example of your works?
Yu.S.: If you take all my works, Adyghe ornaments are used almost everywhere. I live with it! And then, as I have already said, when we worked in the laboratory with the collection "Adyghe folk ornament in modern clothing", we also made souvenirs in ethnic style. At that time, I was invited to one seminar in Krasnodar, and there were artists and fashion designers, there were about 13-15 people, and the Head of the Clothing service of the Krasnodar territory was also present there. And so they all highly appreciated our souvenirs, considering they could be sold well on the coast. Later, they even sent two specialists to us. They worked with us for a week in the laboratory and at the same time they made necessary documentation, that is, consumption of materials, how many threads, fabrics. They prepared everything for the production of such souvenirs in ethnic style and left us. In my life, I had to work hard to ensure that national clothes would be on sale in the Art salon. However, not everyone supported it at the time. But these days passed, and now the production of Adyghe national clothing has become a popular and even profitable business. And it is very good!
- So, you want to say that today the demand for national clothing is much greater, and we are trying to restore it and preserve it. Here you are just one of those who started to restore it. For example, if we take your collection "Adyghe folk ornament in modern clothing". It is also important you are one of the first people to restore the national costumes themselves, their design, cut and tailoring. You have already mentioned about it.
Yu.S.: Really, culture or art of one nation is an open door to its soul. And when the people visit the exhibition of the folk art, they get, we can say, into the soul of this nation, they learn its culture. It brings us closer! And today, it is very important! And then today, the whole world and numerous indigenous peoples are rich with their cultures, traditions and customs. Including the Adyghe people! And this is that brings all our peoples closer together. Therefore, today we need to develop this direction. The people who come to Adyghea today, they want to see the national identity of our people. And they can see other things in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other big cities. Therefore, the national culture is very important today. And the original culture of our people is not seen everywhere. The same goes for language. We are now concerned the indigenous languages are gradually disappearing. Therefore, all this is interconnected. Each item has its own national name, and it must be preserved. Therefore, the language must exist. It was very important for us, when our laboratory worked, our collection of ornaments and ethnic souvenirs was high appreciated at the seminar in Krasnodar. I am pleased that you are interested in this question today.  Surely, there was a time when the suit was so-called "passport" of its owner.
-You say it was a “passport”. What exactly did it show about its owner?
Yu.S.: The fact that he belongs to his people. That's what the suit was saying about.
- Meanwhile, since the XIX-th century, Circassian suit, Adyghe men's clothing was worn by many peoples of the North Caucasus.
JS: It is true! As Iskhak Mashbash said: "the Circassian suit, made for you, is suitable for all peoples." I will give you one example. Somehow, Asker Gadagatl told me there was in Tbilisi one English scientist and he met with Georgian scientist, Professor Chikobava. And at the concert, the Englishman looks up and says with admiration: "What a beautiful costume you have!» And Chikobava answers him: "This costume has the name of the people who created it. Cherkeska!". Today, it is very important and necessary to preserve and protect the culture of our people. But it is also necessary to develop and enrich it. So for me, it has become a goal of my life. And I always did it with a great pleasure!
- Yuri Makhmudovich, thank you very much for this interview!

The interview was prepared by Fatima Teuchezh
Photos from Yuri Stash’s archive